Showing posts with label GA Cumberland Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label GA Cumberland Island. Show all posts

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Cumberland Island, history, Plum Orchard


     Today, our second and final day on Cumberland Island, we will take a look at a bit of the history.  As with so many places, much of the history has long faded and there is nothing to photograph to give a representation of it.  But we have a few photographs from the Ice House Museum.

      The first era that we know of was the American Indian era.  Of course there could have been numerous tribes live here over the millenia - we have no way of knowing.  There are numerous shell mounds and pottery shards that have been found on the island, so there was a long history of activity on the island.  Yesterday we saw a picture from the museum of an early french artists impression of the Indians.  Much like neighboring Amelia Island, the Spanish had missions here back in the 1500's. 

     Not long after Georgia founder James Oglethorpe established Fort Frederica just north of here on St. Simons Island he pushed the remaining Spanish off of this stretch of islands and burned anything they had built.  The English then started the Plantation Era on the island, growing cotton, indigo and rice along with a large variety of fruit orchards.

     Here are a couple of old buildings that there were renderings of in the museum.  The first one is of the original Dungeness Plantation house, built by the heirs of Nathaniel Greene of Revolutionary War fame.  
     


     Dungeness was the name of a town in England, and when the Carnegie's bought this same plot of land on the island and built the mansion whose ruins we saw yesterday, they opted to keep the same name for the property.

     Not much is left of this era on the island, but there are rows of fireplaces and chimneys that were part of the slave cabins.  It is estimated that in 1860, immediately prior to the Civil War, there were approximately 500 black slaves and 70 whites residing on the island.



      The Union soldiers who came to the island were told to not burn anything, as Nathaniel Greene was well respected by Union General Sherman.  Shortly after the Civil War the mansion burned though, and the Carnegie's acquired the property about twenty years later.

     Following is a photo of an old hunt club that also burned to the ground.  Robert E. Lee's father died and was buried on this island, but Robert had him dug up and reburied on the family plot up north.


     Following is a photo of the fire that destroyed the Carnegie's main house, the ruins of which we saw yesterday.  


     Thomas Carnegie, brother of Andrew Carnegie was part of the early steel mill wealth from Pittsburgh Pennsylvania.  He  bought up a lot of land on the island in 1880 and 1881, then died a heavy drinker in 1886 at the age of 43.  

     Back on Jekyll Island I was told that the Carnegie's tried to join their club but were turned down for membership because their money was "too new."  Whether or not that is true, the Carnegie's bought a huge chunk of this island, a neighbor to Jekyll right about the time that club was forming.

     This is another photo of the ruins of the main mansion, showed burning above.  It is believed that a disgruntled employee set fire to the place.


     There are many relics scattered about the island from the ensuing Carnegie era - in fact there is still a bit of land owned by the Carnegie descendants.  The Greyfield Inn is one of those, and is the island's only business.  Here are some old gas pumps beside one of the out buildings.


     Another of the descendants lives in the house below and owns GOGO Jewelery, a well known artistic brand of adornments.


     Lucy, Andrew's wife, built "cottages" for their children.  Below is one such place called "Plum Orchard."


          David Meyer, pictured below, is a National Parks Service employee who has worked for many years on the Blue Ridge Parkway and on the mall in Washington DC.  He guided the park's van tour of the island that runs five days a week.


     Helping us at Plum Orchard was Minnesota native Jean.  This park, like many in Georgia will give folks free room and board if they work on the property a certain number of hours each week.  It really is a win-win situation.


     This is Plum Orchard's entryway foyer.  This mansion was built in 1898 for son George and his new bride Margaret Thaw.

     George died young too - he kicked the bucket in 1921 and Margaret then married a Frenchman.  There is a story that the Frenchman took took all of George's stuff including furniture, chandeliers, guns, books - about everything to New York and auctioned it off.  This apparently irked mother-in-law Lucy quite a bit, because the Frenchman was promptly informed that he was no longer welcome here.

     But, the story is contested by others who say Lucy herself auctioned off George and Margaret's belongings.


     Here is a photo of the entryway before the items were disposed of.  There are some scant furnishings about the house as you will see - I presume the Park Service has acquired them from others in the Carnegie family.


     Just off the entryway is the formal dining room.


     And immediately behind that is the kitchen.  The park service spent over ten million dollars renovating the mansion, and this room absorbed its fair share of the assets.  The floor was starting to collapse under the weight of that big iron stove, and had to be completely rebuilt.


     Here is the "linen closet."


     Also in this area there was an indicator with a bell on the wall.  Each of the 30 rooms in the house had a rope hanging off the wall that you would pull to summon a servant.  When you pulled the cord, the bell here rang and the arrow that corresponded to that cord popped up in the contraption below.


     If you look closer you will notice I managed a "selfie" in that photo.

     On the other side of the entryway lies a library and sporting room.  I am not sure who bagged the trophies, but that is a big elk.



    The bookshelves are very rare - they were made with American Chestnut wood before the chestnut blight wiped out all of the United States chestnut trees.  It is thought a fungus brought in on Japanese trees was the cause.


     Up the main staircase we head to the bedroom level.


     All of the floors are wood, done in a square pattern with each small board hand nailed.


     In the master bedroom you can see the pull-cord hanging from the wall.


     Here is a bidet with four different water temperature controls behind a door with a crystal globe door knob.  You can wash your backside in style at precisely controlled temperatures.  


     And what bathroom is complete without a Ben Franklin stove?


     Here is a well appointed doll house thought to have been styled on a property in Pittsburgh.


     And an old perambulator..


     They got a bit smarter in later generations - there are fire hoses throughout the house.


     Here is the circuit board for the electric.  The house was run on DC current, and the wires were run through slats of wood for insulation


     In the basement is a contraption that is new on me - a water tower powered elevator.  A water tower stood outside the mansion, and the weight of the water that was pumped up into the top of the tower provide the power to operate this contraption.


     Termite control - a piece of copper foil between the top of the masonry foundation and the wooden support beams. 


     Here is the old ice chest in the basement.  There is one of the first ice making machines in this basement, but my photo didn't turn out.  Supposedly the ice maker was built by a company what was the predecessor to modern day General Electric. 
     

     Prior to this, if you wanted ice in your house you had to have it shipped down from the north and keep it in sawdust.

     Here is the hot water boiler - there is a coal bin close by.  And of course coal has to be shipped in from the north as well.


     Here is an old electric generator.


     Back upstairs is a squash court with an observation balcony.


     And a swimming pool.


     The National Park Service has acquired over fifty percent of the island now.  Most homes they acquire they bulldoze and in short order the forest returns.  

     There is another story that the developer of Hilton Head, Charles Fraser, drew up plans to buy large tracts of Cumberland and develop fenced in communities in a similar fashion to his previous development.  Supposedly this irked the Cumberland's enough that they got a family friend to introduce a bill to congress that started the initial federal investment here.

     One thing we have not seen anywhere before is a cactus that grows on oak trees.  Here is a large branch, shown with the resurrection fern and this cactus growing out.  There are numerous of these - has anyone seen such a thing before?


      Today's "Faces in the Crowd" was taken on Cumberland.


     And the parting shot was spotted in a tavern window in St. Marys.



EMAIL me if you like, DONATE if you can, Read Today's Meditation if you have time, but whatever you do be sure to Have an Awesome Thursday !!

David


Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Cumberland Island GA: Carnegie, Fairfield Inn, Cumberland Island Ferry, St. Marys GA

Cumberland Island depot; St. Marys GA

     Welcome back to St. Marys, Georgia.  St. Marys is known as "The Gateway to Cumberland Island" - among other things.  

     The above pictured building lies along the waterfront, and houses the National Park Service's welcome center for the island.  


     This is where you go to get tickets for the ferry that runs across to the island - about a 30 minute ride.


     Cumberland Island, the largest of Georgia's Golden Isles, sits just north of Amelia Island Florida, separated by the St. Marys River.


     The National Park Service has been slowly acquiring property on the island - they now own over half of its 36,000 acres.


     Rapidly leaving St. Marys behind, we head out into the Intracoastal Waterway, that stretch of protected inland navigable water that runs from Maine to Miami.



     Seagulls follow the boat out for the first mile or so, hoping for an easy meal.


     Being on the rear of the top deck affords a good chance to photograph them.  


     En-route we pass a ferry bringing a large truck back from the island.


     There are two piers on the island that the park service will drop you off at - both of them close to the south end of the island.  The only way to see much of the island is to either take the park service's tour, which only takes 11 passengers a day in a van around the island, know a local, or plan on about fifty miles of bike riding.  It is not realistic to expect to see much in only one day of hiking.
  

     But many come here to hike, and many more come to camp for a while.  The park service has three primitive campsites on the island that have fresh water and showers.


     But, the whole reason we back-tracked was because we found a guide.  Brenda Barber Taylor lived on the island for over twenty years, and these days she returns on a regular basis to take care of a resident's house here.

     She keeps this old vehicle by the dock to run back and forth to the property she takes care of - and it is a typical "island" vehicle. It has fiberglass patches where the roof rusted, tires go flat and it needs a periodic jump.  But, it costs $ 250 to ferry a car out to the island, and a local sold her the vehicle some years back for $ 300, so she is well ahead on the deal.


      Brenda is a talented photographer whose work on Cumberland Island can be seen in homes and shops all around southern Georgia.  Here are a few of her shots.


     The island has a large population of feral horses, the descendants of horses the Spanish brought here back in the 1500's.  The other remnant of the Spanish are the feral pigs - quite a nuisance as they breed quickly and kill a lot of vegetation.  They like to dig up and eat the roots of various plants and trees, and leave the rest of the tree to die.


     They are fairly territorial, and herds are usually only two to five horses large.  


     We will explore the ruins shown above tomorrow, along with the history of the island.  Today we will just look around a bit and get a feel for it.

    This photograph of Brenda's shows cars that the Carnegie's left behind years ago.  The National Park Service ended up hauling them off the island - or burying them somewhere - nobody seems to know for sure where they went.


     So, now that you are spoiled by Brenda's photos, back to the island.  There are miles of dirt roads around the island, and only a few are marked.  If you are not from here, it is easy to get lost.  


      Every half mile or so is a pull-off - just in case you happen to run across someone else driving.  In a whole day on the island we only saw two other cars - both park rangers.


      Toward the south end of the island, beside the ruins of an old mansion is the island's museum.


     The following photo is of the USS Constitution, which it is said was built from lumber harvested on Cumberland Island.  The live oak trees are very dense and very hard, making a sturdy ship that was difficult for cannon balls to penetrate.


      The museum holds a number of artifacts, including some from the Spanish era on the island.  There is a nice time-line that is easily followed, showing the various eras that the island has survived.


     An early French visitor drew the above picture depicting what the indigenous peoples camps looked like.  The Indians in this area were heavily tattooed, and their camps seem to have had fences to keep deer out of the crops.

     There is an old church at the extreme northern end of the island.


     This photo was in the museum.  I chose to not go to photograph the church as the time seemed better spent in other areas of the island.  This is where the Kennedy kid got married to Carolyn Bessette, who was a publicist for Calvin Klein.  

     They planted some bushes outside the chapel for the wedding, but the locals tore them back out shortly after the entourage left.  I was unclear on the reason - my impression was that they were not a specie that grows naturally on the island.


     The horses can be seen about the island - they let you get withing fifty or so feet before they start wandering away from you.  I got a lot of pictures of horse's butts.  I am told that the original gene line has been changed some over the years as local's horses have bred with the wild horses, and some locals set their horses free when they left the island.

     The Park Service was threatening to kill off the horses because they eat the Sea Oats on the dunes.  But the locals wouldn't hear of it - the sea oats have been doing fine after four hundred years of being eaten by the horses, and the wild horses are part of the charm of the island.
      

     There is a small airplane landing strip, built on what was originally a cotton field and then a golf course.


     Road signs are scant, and you have to be alert to see them.


     At a dozen or so points there are dirt roads that run out through the dunes to the beach.


     This island is one of those that is gaining sand, so the beaches are wide and buffered by a wide section of dunes.  Brenda loves beach-combing - she has found four "messages in a bottle" washed up over the years.  



     Hats wash ashore now and then, and of course there are hundreds of thousands of sea shells.  You can see horse-shoe crab shells by the tens of thousands.


     If you look close in the distance, you can see the smoke stacks of the paper mills on Fernandina Beach.

     It is a rare thing to find a spot where a photograph will show how beautiful the trees right along the shore are.  The steady wind off of the ocean bends them all inward in graceful arches.


      The salt in the ground and air stunts the growth of the oaks a bit, but they still get the gnarled and twisted branches that were so desirable by shipwrights.


     I didn't see much fresh water on the island - here is the tip of a tidal creek that one of the roads crosses.


     When they tore down the old bridge and built the new one, it left Brenda in a fix.  She lived on one side of the bridge and worked on the other.  So, she parked a car on each side of the bridge, and the crane operator would lift her across the creek each day.


     All too soon, it is time to return to the inland side of the island and load back onto the ferry.  Tomorrow we will take a look at a bit of the history of the island.

     Today's "Faces in the crowd" taken on the return ferry trip:


     And today's parting shot, seen in a pub window in St. Marys:


EMAIL me if you like, DONATE if you can, Read Today's Meditation if you have time, but whatever you do be sure to have a great Wednesday !!

David Emch